Again, try to find and lift all the pins with the different hook picks without applying any torque. As you work with locks more populated with pins, it becomes increasingly critical to avoid accidently disturbing the pins adjacent to the one you're working on. In general, wafer lock picking employs the same techniques and tools as those used for pin tumbler locks. When the energy transfers, the top pin moves up while the bottom pin slows down, and a gap is created between the two pins. Now release torque and try again, but this time lift the pins as little as you can when you test them, while still distinguishing between the two states. If this happens, you won't get the lock open until you release torque and start over. Now re-apply torque and set the first binding pin. Practice distinguishing between the pin states and then finish picking the cylinder.

Remember to practice this several times, in both directions. Practice picking the two pin lock until you can do it easily and naturally. More than anything else success in picking depends on experience and practice with a range of locks. You have to be prepared to pick locks in either direction. Now apply torque in the other direction. You may want to use one of the smaller torque tools as well, or put your torque tool in the bottom part of the keyway instead of the (curvy) top. To execute a successful bank shot, start by visualizing the path that you want your target ball to take after bouncing off the cushion. But some of the kinetic energy is also lost to friction between the ball and the table, what is billiards causing it to roll. If you're having trouble, you may be pushing adjacent pins up past the shear line as you pick a pin, causing them to be overset even before they start to bind. Picking locks with spool and mushroom pins takes practice, both to recognize them and to effectively neutralize them when they are encountered. Again, continue with the AR1 locks. Continue with the AR1 lock board. For this exercise, you'll be continuing with the two pin AR1 lock.

Now the plug is being prevented from moving by the next most misaligned pin (which, in this case, is the other pin, since there are only two). You should already be able to distinguish between an unset pin that isn't binding, an already set pin, and a pin that is binding. To neutralize a partially set spool or mushroom pin, reduce torque and push the pin up, allowing the plug to rotate backward a bit as you do. Set/not-binding. The pin stack was already picked. Congratulations, you've picked the (two pin) lock. Once you've picked a cylinder, you should know in exactly what order the pins pick. One of the pins should be unset/binding ("squishy") while the other should be unset/not-binding ("springy"). It becomes distinguishable from an unset/binding pin stack when you try to set it; while it binds, it does not set, no matter how much further it is lifted. Note that these locks have been deliberately pinned with a short pin behind a long one. If you can pick all (or at least most) of the locks on this board, you are well prepared against the typical locks installed in residential and commercial buildings in the US.

If you’re a Pool or Snooker player, you can reuse your cues for this game. 15.3 What is a Russian Pool? What did the first pool table look like? It is not placed back on the table until that player’s turn. While applying light to moderate torque, push and pull a gently rounded rake pick from front to back and back to front along the pin stacks. You'll notice that it resists more than it did in the previous exercise because its top pin is pinched between the plug and the shell at the shear line by the torque you're applying. If both feel springy, you're not applying enough torque (which is unlikely). If you inadvertently push a pin up too far or are applying so much torque that more than one pin is binding, you may have an overset pin instead. Perhaps the far corner pocket? You cannot pocket red balls continuously.