Notes on Picking Pin Tumbler Locks > 자유게시판

In particular note that because the pins are slightly out of alignment, as the plug is turned gently, only the pin stack that is most out of alignment actually prevents further rotation. Note the border between the plug and shell, which forms the shear line, and the cuts in each pin stack resting within the plug. Pin tumbler lock picking consists of raising the cuts on each pin stack to the shear line, one by one, until the plug turns freely. If just one pin sets at the "other" shear line, the lock will not open even though all the pin stacks are picked. Some players will purchase spot stickers and use them to mark out where the colored balls should go. In practice, of course, locks aren't perfect: the pin holes in the plug are slightly out of alignment with respect to the shell and the pins and pin holes are each of a slightly different diameter. However, your efforts un-pinning and re-pinning locks will be time well spent -- you will progress much faster than you would if you tried to start out picking fully pinned cylinders. Few burglars can afford to risk exposure during the time required to pick even relatively easy locks, and unexplained possession of lock picking tools is often considered prima facia evidence of criminal intent.

Over the years, the locksmithing industry has settled on a number of "standard" pick designs. Lock picking is a core skill of the locksmithing trade and is also of value to those evaluating, investigating, and studying security systems. An excellent (and currently available) reference is Marc W. Tobias' Locks, Safes and Security. Some high security locks, such as those manufactured by Abloy and Abus, use round disk tumblers that are rotated into position by a specially designed key bitted with angled cuts corresponding to each tumbler. Figure 2. Pin tumbler lock with a correct key inserted. The three hook picks in this kit are sufficient to manipulate the vast majority of pin tumbler locks found in the US. Billiards, on the other hand, uses only three balls: one each of white, yellow, and red, with the white and yellow serving as strikers. Observe that after you set the first pin, your three pin cylinder has one pin in each of three different states: set/not-binding, unset/not-binding, and unset/binding. You will need a small set of cylinders in various keyways, a board or vice to hold them in while you practice, and a small re-pinning kit (extra pins and springs and a "follower" tool).

The large board has locks with eight different keyways, representing many of the most common keyway designs used in the US. Torque tools may be oriented vertically (with the handle in line with the keyway) or horizontally (with the handle perpendicular to the keyway); different people have different preferences. The electronic control mechanism may be vulnerable to new attacks, e.g., through the introduction of RF or power faults or via "Tempest" monitoring. The pins toward the back may feel a bit different from the pins in the front. Both the pick and the torque tool also amplify and transmit feedback about the state of the lock back to their user. The modern pin tumbler lock is quite simple, dating back to ancient Egypt but not commercially mass-produced until the middle of the 19th century. The basic principles of operation are essentially the same as those of the standard pin tumbler lock, except that the tumblers are exposed at the front of the cylinder and a round ("tubular") key is used.

While many of the principles of pin tumbler lock picking apply or can be adapted to other mechanical lock designs, a complete discussion of these locks and techniques for defeating them is beyond the scope of this document. Become comfortable with this before you try picking this lock with torque or you could bend or break your picks. The basic recommended pick set for this course includes four picks and four torque tools. Keep practicing with the two pin lock, trying to lighten your touch as you do, and making sure you consistently can pick the pins one at a time. For example, the method it calls "scrubbing" is called "raking" by almost everyone else (it's not something I suggest you spend much time on, at least at first, by the way). If the torque tool is too thin, it will tend to be "springy" and will absorb much of the fine movement and control needed to successfully pick better quality locks. A key that is bitted to the wrong depth in even one pin position will not operate the lock. These imperfections are very small -- as little as .0001 inches in some cases -- but they are what allow us to manipulate ("pick") locks open without using the correct key.

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